Are Natural Cosmetics Safer? 5 Myths Debunked

Published: 28.05.2025 | Updated: 16.10.2026 | Reading time approx. 10 min.

The natural cosmetics market is developing at a dizzying pace, which, as a long-time fan, I welcome with genuine joy. I am also observing a growing group of customers reaching for natural alternatives to conventional products. Unfortunately, this choice rarely stems from genuine awareness. In most cases, it is the result of blindly following trends or catchy marketing slogans. As a cosmetic scientist, this is something I must protest.

Skincare Myths: The Lavender Scam and Why Your “Natural” Cream Could Be Harming Your Skin

My work involves more than just creating formulas that affect the skin in a specific, planned way. It is also about ensuring that a cosmetic is, above all, safe. A safe product should not irritate or cause allergies. It must also remain stable and be pleasant to apply. Therefore, out of concern for your skin’s health, I will debunk the five most common myths about natural and organic cosmetics. And the truth might just surprise you.

Take a cream “with natural lavender”. Lavender essential oil is rich in linalool, a regulated allergen that the manufacturer must declare in the INCI list. On contact with air, it oxidises and becomes considerably more allergenic – so once the jar is open, the risk grows with every use. Natural? Yes. Safe for every skin? No.

Have a question about your own skin? Scroll to the end of this article – I’m happy to advise you by email.

Myth 1: Natural ingredients are better than synthetic or “nature-identical” ones

Synthetic substances are simply compounds produced in a laboratory – and they are by no means inherently harmful. Quite the contrary: many of them have proven soothing, antioxidant, rejuvenating, or moisturising effects. Both synthetic and natural ingredients can be beneficial for the skin, supporting its barrier and improving overall appearance. We can distinguish between these substances by their origin. For example, D-panthenol is purely synthetic, while coenzyme Q10 is now most often produced biotechnologically, by fermentation. Others, such as vitamins C and E, can be from both natural and synthetic sources, while hyaluronic acid used to be extracted from animal tissue and is now mostly produced biotechnologically.

Sometimes, a synthetic ingredient can be a better alternative to its natural counterpart. A perfect example is o-cymen-5-ol – a synthetic preservative whose structure is close to compounds that occur naturally in plants, such as thyme. It has antifungal, antibacterial, and antiviral properties, but unlike its natural “brother”, it contains no allergens. This is why it is well tolerated, even in cosmetics for babies. Furthermore, it is excellent at preventing the spoilage of cosmetics that contain natural, moisture-absorbing ingredients.

Myth 2: Organic cosmetics are safer than conventional cosmetics

The myth of the superior safety of natural cosmetics is one of the most persistent beliefs in the beauty industry. The truth, however, is that all cosmetics in the European Union are subject to the same safety requirements. This applies to every product, whether it’s from the “eco”, “natural”, or conventional shelf. Before it reaches the market, every product goes through stability, packaging compatibility and microbiological purity testing, as well as an assessment of its skin tolerance. The final safety report is then signed off by a qualified safety assessor, who takes responsibility for the product.

Cosmetic law does not distinguish between “natural” and “artificial” products. The key distinction is the division into two categories (based on microbiological purity):

• Category 1: Products for children under 3 years of age, cosmetics for the eye area, and mucous membranes (e.g., lip balms, eye creams, intimate hygiene washes).
• Category 2: All others (body lotions, shampoos, etc.).

Within both categories, we can find hypoallergenic cosmetics. It’s important to know that the term ‘hypoallergenic’ is not legally defined in the EU. If a brand uses this claim, it must be supported by robust scientific data. These products must also undergo additional, extended dermatological testing. How can you tell as a consumer? A product that does not belong to Category 1 should carry the warning “avoid the eye area” on its label. If the warning is missing although the product is not designed for that area, in my view it is a sign of a lack of rigour in its documentation.

How is safety assessed? A safety assessor’s analysis goes beyond the formula’s ingredients, concentrations, and test results. They must also consider the method of use, including the site and surface area of exposure, how often it is used and who uses it. For example, a post-bath cream for an infant is assessed differently than a body lotion for an adult. A natural or organic formula is not given any exceptional treatment in this process.

What do “natural” certificates really guarantee?

Certificates like Ecocert or COSMOS are primarily used to verify the origin of a product’s raw materials. For example, they confirm details such as the percentage of organic ingredients or whether they come from organic farming. However, they do not assess whether a specific plant extract is irritating or allergenic. I am not against natural certifications, but they do not serve to assess the safety of a cosmetic; they are purely for marketing.

Yet many people recommend a product as “safe” simply because it is certified. In reality, what decides whether a cosmetic is safe is the safety assessor’s evaluation – and, if the product is meant for sensitive skin, extended dermatological testing, not the logo on the packaging.

A natural certificate is an ethical declaration, not a medical one. A certified cream may contain more allergens than a conventional shower gel – you can read more about it in our article Hypoallergenic Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin: Advice and Guide.

Myth 3: Natural skincare products do not irritate or cause allergies

It may be surprising, but natural cosmetics often contain more potential allergens than their conventional counterparts. The main sources are typically essential oils, plant extracts, and natural fragrance compositions. For a closer look at which natural ingredients can trigger allergies and how hypoallergenic skincare is tested, read my guide to natural skincare for sensitive skin.

In the INCI list, you will often see certain names followed by an asterisk (*) and the note “constituents of natural essential oils”. The implied message is reassuring: these strange-sounding words are just nature. In reality, the asterisk marks allergens – and only those above the mandatory labelling threshold: 0.001% in leave-on products (creams, serums) and 0.01% in rinse-off products (cleansing gels, shampoos). And that is only a small part of the picture: an essential oil contains many other compounds, none of which you will find on the label.

This is compliant with the law, but in my opinion, it is unfair to the customer. The names presented as “natural” are precisely the allergens with an irritating effect.

A Warning for Sensitive Skin!

Even if no allergens are listed on a product’s INCI, they may still be present. This can happen when they are in concentrations below the legal declaration threshold. This poses a particular risk for those with sensitive skin, atopic dermatitis, rosacea, or eczema. For these individuals, even trace amounts of an allergen are enough to cause a reaction or irritation.

Why is this a problem?

• Lack of Awareness: Most people do not know that a ‘natural essential oil’ is a mixture of dozens of compounds, including potentially irritating ones.
• A False Sense of Security: “Naturalness” certificates do not verify the skin tolerance of ingredients, focusing only on their origin.

Myth 4: Natural cosmetics do not contain potentially dangerous ingredients

While many people worry about synthetic chemicals like parabens in conventional cosmetic products, the truth is more complex. There is a positive trend of eliminating CMR substances (carcinogenic, mutagenic, toxic for reproduction) from conventional cosmetics. The overall issue of safety, however, is more complex than it appears. What is less known is that some ingredients that raise doubts can also be found in natural and organic formulas.

Example: Tea Tree Oil. Tea tree oil (Melaleuca alternifolia) has well-documented antimicrobial properties, but its safety was long less thoroughly studied. In 2023, the Committee for Risk Assessment of the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) proposed classifying it as toxic for reproduction (category 1B), based on studies in rats given high oral doses – so these are not data from humans.

A substance classified this way is, in principle, banned in cosmetics unless its safety is demonstrated. Producers, mainly in Australia, therefore applied for an exemption. In October 2025, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) concluded that tea tree oil can be used safely, but only under strict conditions: in products for adults only, at limited concentrations (up to 0.1% in a face cream, 1% in a face wash or shower gel, 2% in a shampoo), compliant with ISO 4730, and never in spray form. The SCCS also considers it a moderate skin sensitiser. The EU’s final decision is still pending (source: SCCS/1681/25).

What does this mean? Keep up with the latest evidence and keep a sense of perspective – in both directions. In many cases, safety depends on concentration. When a raw material is a potential allergen or could affect reproduction, caution is needed:

• limit its concentration in products;
• do not use it on children or during pregnancy;
• do not apply it to damaged or diseased skin;
• never swallow a product that is not meant to be ingested;
• buy from a reliable source that guarantees proper storage and no contamination. Old or poorly stored tea tree oil oxidises and becomes more irritating to the skin.

Myth 5: Natural fragrance is safer, and its composition is known

This is untrue. Allergens derived from essential oils or plant extracts have an identical irritating effect to synthetic fragrance substances. They are all volatile, penetrating the skin and mucous membranes to cause reactions in sensitive individuals. They can also enter the bloodstream quite quickly: after a massage with lavender essential oil, linalool and linalyl acetate are detectable in the blood within minutes, peaking at around 20 minutes (Jäger et al., 1992).

A manufacturer might disclose a fragrance’s composition by listing the natural essential oils or absolutes used. However, even when they declare the legally required allergens, we never see the full list of chemical ingredients. Every essential oil is an incredibly complex mixture, sometimes consisting of several hundred different chemical compounds. The exact content is not always known, and concentrations depend on the origin or batch of the raw material. Therefore, it makes no real difference whether a fragrance ingredient is synthetic or natural. In either case, as consumers, we never know its full chemical composition.

The most thoroughly studied essential oils are those that comply with the pharmacopoeia. These are oils that are tested for conformity to a standard, which is an identity test for the essential oil. If a producer performs these tests, they will readily provide reports for the batch they are selling. However, such tests are expensive, and not every producer wants to do them – it is not a requirement.

The claim of a “natural fragrance” can lull consumers into a false sense of security. Meanwhile, the list of fragrance allergens, which originally included 24 items, has been extended by the EU to around 80 – and a large share of them are of natural origin. This list may grow again in the future.

How to check your tolerance for a fragrance?

• Smell it. If the scent is too intense or gives you a headache, avoid the product. I get headaches more often from synthetic fragrances, but your experience may or may not be similar.
• Do a patch test. Apply a small amount of the cosmetic behind your ear. Observe the skin for 12-24 hours. If there is no redness, itching or other allergic reactions, you can use it.

In Conclusion

The “naturalness” of a cosmetic guarantees neither superior efficacy nor greater safety. Both natural and conventional products are subject to the same restrictive standards. These rules on quality, purity, and safety are in force across the entire European Union.

So, where do natural cosmetics really shine? In the richness of their active ingredients – such as unrefined plant oils and butters that are packed with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. They work gently but effectively to:

• Protect against water loss (TEWL), strengthening the skin’s hydrolipidic barrier.
• Reduce tension and help regulate sebum, creating optimal conditions for regeneration.
• Help the skin cope with external aggressors such as frost and smog.

Are you looking for skincare products, like a natural cream that is safe enough for the skin around the eyes, free from all of the fragrance allergens regulated in the EU? One that is hypoallergenic and, most importantly, will truly nurture your skin? Try Cream and enjoy healthy, irritation-free skin.

And remember: the key is conscious choice. By all means, reach for natural cosmetics for their nourishing properties. However, you must always check the INCI list and avoid allergens, especially if you have sensitive, atopic, or acne-prone skin.

Discover Pure Raw Rich skincare:

Aleksandra Kubas-Maliszewska

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