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Acne-prone skin care routine – basic principles

Acne (acne vulgaris) ranks among the most prevalent dermatological concerns, primarily affecting adolescents aged 12–24. However, contrary to popular belief, it is not confined to puberty. Many adults – particularly women – struggle with persistent or recurring breakouts well into their 30s and 40s, with studies revealing adult acne impacts up to 40% of women beyond their mid-20s. While genetics and hormonal fluctuations play significant roles, dirty skin, improper skincare practices, environmental stressors, and lifestyle habits can exacerbate this complex condition.

Decades of peer-reviewed research underscore a critical truth: a disciplined, science-led skincare regimen is the cornerstone of managing acne. By minimizing inflammation, regulating sebum production, and nurturing the skin’s microbiome, you can significantly reduce breakouts and prevent long-term scarring. But how can you achieve lasting results? The answer lies in mastering four pillars – gentle cleansingintelligent hydrationstrategic exfoliation, and microbiome-friendly practices – all tailored to acne-prone skin’s unique needs.

This guide explores actionable, science-backed strategies to transform your routine and restore balance – without compromising your skin’s delicate health.

Causes of Acne

Acne is a chronic inflammatory disorder of the pilosebaceous unit (hair follicles and sebaceous glands), manifesting as comedones (blackheads and whiteheads), papules, pustules, and – in severe cases – cystic nodules and scarring. Far from a superficial concern, its roots lie in a multifactorial web of internal and external triggers:

Primary Pathogenic Factors:

  • Sebum Overproduction: While oily substance called sebum naturally protects and lubricates the skin, excess production – driven by hormonal fluctuations or genetic predisposition – clogs pores, creating an ideal environment for inflammation and more severe acne.
  • Follicular Hyperkeratinization: Disrupted keratinocyte shedding within follicles traps dead skin cells and sebum, forming comedones. These can evolve into inflammatory lesions if colonized by bacteria.
  • Cutibacterium acnes Proliferation: This commensal skin bacterium thrives in sebum-rich environments, triggering inflammatory cascades that result in painful, pus-filled breakouts.
  • Hormonal Dysregulation: Androgen surges (common in puberty, menstruation, pregnancy, or menopause) amplify sebum production and follicular sensitivity.
  • Genetic Susceptibility: A family history of acne increases risk due to inherited traits like sebum composition or inflammatory response intensity.

Exacerbating Influences:
Modern lifestyles often fuel acne’s persistence:

  • Dietary Choices: High-glycemic foods and dairy may spike insulin-like growth factors, worsening sebum output.
  • Chronic Stress: Cortisol spikes disrupt skin barrier function and amplify inflammation.
  • Incorrect Skincare: Harsh cleansers, comedogenic ingredients, or over-exfoliation disrupt the microbiome and compromise the cutaneous barrier.

The Path Forward:
Effective acne management requires a dual approach: identifying your unique triggers and adopting targeted, non-irritating skincare that respects the skin’s biology.

Acne vulgaris is often confused with Acne rosacea. If you’re not sure which one you’re struggling with, be sure to read our article: Rosacea: What Might Red Spots on the Face Indicate and How to Get Rid of Them?

How to treat acne on face? Start with proper cleansing

One of the most common skincare mistakes for acne-prone skin is using overly aggressive cleansers that strip the hydrolipid barrier. This triggers a vicious cycle: compromised barrier function → excess sebum production → clogged pores and inflammation. To break this cycle, adopt these dermatologist-approved cleansing principles:

Cleanser Selection: Less Is More

Acne-prone skin requires slightly acidic (pH 5.5–6.0), gentle cleansers that preserve the microbiome and avoid stripping natural lipids. Many mass-market “acne-targeting” gels contain harsh sulfates (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate) and degreasing agents that indiscriminately remove both excess sebum and the skin’s protective lipid layer. This creates a counterproductive cycle:

  1. Initial Perception: A “squeaky-clean” feel, mistakenly interpreted as efficacy.
  2. Reality: Disruption of the hydrolipid barrier → moisture loss → dehydration.
  3. Consequence: Sebaceous glands overcompensate by producing more oil, exacerbating clogged pores and inflammation.

The Alexandra Kubas Solution: Smoothing Cleanser redefines acne care with a cream-based formula free of sulfates, alcohol, or synthetic fragrances. Enriched with natural emollients like copaiba oleoresin and neem oil, it:

  • Dissolves impurities without compromising the skin’s barrier.
  • Maintains optimal pH to support microbial balance.
  • Prevents dehydration with humectants that lock in moisture.
  • Unlike foaming gels, this gentle cleanser leaves skin balanced – never tight or stripped – making it ideal for reactive, breakout-prone complexions.

Cleansing Duration: 60-Second Rule
Washing for at least 60 seconds allows surfactants to break down sebum, pollutants, and bacterial biofilm effectively.

Water Temperature: Lukewarm Is Ideal
Hot water stimulates sebaceous glands, while cold water hinders thorough cleansing. Opt for tepid water to balance efficacy and gentleness.

Technique Matters: Hands-Only Approach

  • Avoid abrasive tools: (they should all end in a trqsh): Synthetic brushes or sponges harbor bacteria and cause microtears what can make acne worse.
  • Use fingertips only: Gently massage in circular motions to lift debris without spreading bacteria.
  • Pat dry: Press (never rub) with a single-use paper towel to minimize friction and contamination.

Debunking Acne Myths

There are many myths and misconceptions about acne that can make it difficult to understand and treat the condition. Here are some common acne myths and the facts behind them:

  • Myth: Acne is caused by dirty skin.
  • Fact: Acne is not caused by only dirty skin, but rather by a combination of factors, including overproduction of sebum, clogged pores, and bacterial growth. However, washing your face too rarely or not properly enough and using harsh products will worsen acne.
  • Myth: Squeezing or popping pimples is the best way to get rid of them.
  • Fact: Squeezing or popping pimples can actually make acne worse by pushing bacteria and other debris deeper into the skin, leading to inflammation and infection. This can also increase the risk of developing acne scars.
  • Myth: Acne is only a problem for teenagers.
  • Fact: Acne can affect people of all ages, including adults. In fact, adult acne is becoming increasingly common and can be caused by a variety of factors, including hormonal fluctuations, stress, and certain medications.
  • Myth: Acne is contagious.
  • Fact: Acne is not contagious and cannot be spread from person to person. It is a condition that occurs beneath the skin’s surface and is influenced by internal and external factors.

By understanding the facts behind these common acne myths, individuals can develop a more effective approach to treating and managing their acne.

Why Hydration Is Key to Managing Acne-Prone Skin

A common misconception among those battling acne is that moisturizers exacerbate oiliness and clog pores. In reality, proper hydration is non-negotiable in acne treatment. Dehydrated skin triggers a survival response: sebaceous glands overproduce oil to compensate for moisture loss, worsening congestion and breakouts.

The Science of Acne and Hydration:

  • Linoleic Acid (Omega-6) Deficiency: Acne-prone skin often lacks this essential fatty acid, critical for maintaining the hydrolipid barrier. Without it, sebum thickens, leading to clogged pores and comedones.
  • Barrier Dysfunction: Compromised skin barriers heighten sensitivity, inflammation, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Ideal Ingredients for Acne-Prone Skin:

  1. Omega-6 Fatty Acids: Restore sebum fluidity and barrier integrity.
  2. Ceramides: Rebuild the lipid matrix to reduce TEWL.
  3. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Regulates sebum production and calms inflammation.
  4. Squalane: Mimics skin’s natural lipids, providing lightweight hydration without clogging pores.

The Water-Based Moisturizer Trap: Many “lightweight”, water-based creams offer fleeting relief. As water evaporates, it strips skin of moisture, prompting rebound oil production – a vicious cycle of dehydration and breakouts.

The Alexandra Kubas Solution: Cream is a water-free, lipid-rich formula crafted for acne-prone skin’s unique needs. This hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic blend of plant-derived oils (coconut oil, baobab oil) and butters (shea, cocoa) forms a breathable protective layer that:

  • Minimizes TEWL by sealing in hydration without suffocating pores.
  • Balances sebum production over time, reducing excess oiliness.
  • Enhances natural exfoliation by softening hardened sebum and dead cells trapped in follicles.

Why Allergen-Free Matters: Irritants like synthetic fragrances, alcohol, or silicones – common in mass-market products – disrupt healing and prolong inflammation. Cream excludes these culprits, prioritizing skin recovery, treating acne and long-term resilience.

How to treat post acne scars and face redness?

Even after active breakouts subside, many face lingering reminders: stubborn redness, hyperpigmentation, and acne scars that leave skin textured and uneven. These post-inflammatory marks can persist for months or years, undermining confidence long after acne itself is controlled. Fortunately, targeted skincare can accelerate healing and restore a radiant, unified complexion.

The Science of Post-Acne Marks
Post-acne marks manifest in three primary forms. Erythema – persistent redness – stems from prolonged inflammation and dilated capillaries near the skin’s surface. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) occurs when trauma (like picking or severe breakouts) triggers excess melanin production, leaving dark spots. Atrophic scarring, often seen in cystic acne, results from collagen loss during the healing process, creating pitted or uneven texture.

Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone): A Dual-Action Solution
Naturally produced by the body, Coenzyme Q10 is a potent antioxidant critical for cellular energy production and collagen synthesis. Its role in post-acne recovery is twofold. First, it stimulates fibroblast activity, boosting collagen production to thicken the dermis and reduce acne scar visibility. Second, it neutralizes free radicals that exacerbate hyperpigmentation and delay healing. When paired with vitamins C and E – powerful brightening agents – Coenzyme Q10 enhances their stability and efficacy, creating a synergistic trio that accelerates tone correction.

The Alexandra Kubas Solution: Serum +Q10 combines 1% ubiquinone with vitamin E and squalane to address post-acne concerns holistically. It calms residual inflammation to fade redness, inhibits melanin overproduction to even tone, and strengthens the skin barrier to prevent future breakouts. For optimal results, apply it after cleansing and follow with Cream to seal in active ingredients.

Pro Tip: Always pair with broad-spectrum SPF 50+ during daytime use, as UV exposure can worsen hyperpigmentation and compromise healing.

Struggling with Acne? Avoid Harsh Exfoliation!

Want to eliminate acne for good? Steer clear of aggressive mechanical scrubs. While abrasive physical exfoliants promise instant smoothness, they often inflict micro-tears that compromise the skin’s barrier and create entry points for Cutibacterium acnes – the bacteria responsible for inflammatory breakouts. The result? Increased redness, irritation, and a higher risk of new blemishes. The exfoliation should be gentle, so the best choice will be enzyme peels or low-concentration acids. You can also use the Smoothing Cleanser, which uses ultra-fine silica particles to gently remove impurities, leaving skin cleansed but unaffected. It works because it maintains the integrity of the skin barrier while reducing TEWL, minimises bacterial proliferation, avoiding micro-trauma and promotes long-lasting cleanliness without causing oil rebound.

Final Note:
Consistency beats intensity. Pair gentle exfoliation with Serum +Q10 to accelerate healing and Cream to reinforce barrier function.

You’re now equipped with the knowledge to care for acne-prone skin effectively. We hope these science-backed strategies empower you to reclaim confidence in your complexion.

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