The natural cosmetics market is developing at a dizzying pace, which, as a long-time fan, I welcome with genuine joy. I am also observing a growing group of customers reaching for natural alternatives to conventional products. Unfortunately, this choice rarely stems from genuine awareness. In most cases, it is the result of blindly following trends or catchy marketing slogans. As a cosmetics technologist, this is something I must protest.

Skincare Myths: The Lavender Scam and Why Your “Natural” Cream Could Be Harming Your Skin

My work involves more than just creating formulas that affect the skin in a specific, planned way. It is also about ensuring that a cosmetic is, above all, safe. A safe product should not irritate or cause allergies. It must also remain stable and be pleasant to apply. Therefore, out of concern for your skin’s health, I will debunk the five most common myths about natural and organic cosmetics. And the truth might just surprise you.

Myth 1: Natural ingredients are better than synthetic or “nature-identical” ones

Synthetic substances are simply compounds produced in a laboratory – and they are by no means inherently harmful. Quite the contrary: many of them have proven soothing, antioxidant, rejuvenating, or moisturising effects. Both synthetic and natural ingredients can be beneficial for the skin, supporting its barrier and improving overall appearance. We can distinguish between these substances by their origin. For example, some ingredients like D-panthenol and coenzyme Q10 are purely synthetic. Others, such as vitamins C and E, can be from both natural and synthetic sources, while an ingredient like hyaluronic acid can be derived from natural, synthetic, or animal sources.

Sometimes, a synthetic ingredient can be a better alternative to its natural counterpart. A perfect example is o-cymen-5-ol – a synthetic preservative that is identical to one found in nature (it occurs naturally in plants). It has antifungal, antibacterial, and antiviral properties, but unlike its natural “brother”, it contains no allergens. This is why it is safe enough to be used even in cosmetics for babies. Furthermore, it is excellent at preventing the spoilage of cosmetics that contain natural, moisture-absorbing ingredients.

Myth 2: Organic cosmetics are safer than conventional cosmetics

The myth of the superior safety of natural cosmetics is one of the most persistent beliefs in the beauty industry. The truth, however, is that all cosmetics in the European Union undergo identical, restrictive testing. This applies to every product, whether it’s from the “eco”, “natural”, or conventional shelf. Under the EU Cosmetic Products Regulation, a mandatory package of tests – including microbiological, stability, compatibility, and dermatological – is required. A final safety assessment report is then prepared by a qualified safety assessor.

Cosmetic law does not distinguish between “natural” and “artificial” products. The key distinction is the division into two categories (based on microbiological purity):

• Category 1: Products for babies from the first day of life, cosmetics for the eye area, and mucous membranes (e.g., lip balms, eye creams, intimate hygiene washes).
• Category 2: All others (body lotions, shampoos, etc.).

Within both categories, we can find hypoallergenic cosmetics. It’s important to know that the term ‘hypoallergenic’ is not legally defined in the EU. If a brand uses this claim, it must be supported by robust scientific data. These products must also undergo additional, extended dermatological testing. As a practical tip, you can often identify a Category 1 product if its label lacks the warning “avoid the eye and mouth area”.

How is safety assessed? A safety assessor’s analysis goes beyond the formula’s ingredients, concentrations, and test results. They must also consider the method of use, including the site and surface area of exposure. For example, a post-bath cream for an infant is assessed differently than a body lotion for an adult. A natural or organic formula is not given any exceptional treatment in this process.

What do “natural” certificates really guarantee?

Certificates like Ecocert or COSMOS are primarily used to verify the origin of a product’s raw materials. For example, they confirm details such as the percentage of organic ingredients or whether they come from organic farming. However, they do not assess whether a specific plant extract is irritating or allergenic. I am not against natural certifications, but they do not serve to assess the safety of a cosmetic; they are purely for marketing.

A natural certificate is an ethical declaration, not a medical one. A certified cream may contain more allergens than a conventional shower gel – you can read more about it in our article Hypoallergenic Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin: Advice and Guide.

Myth 3: Natural skincare products do not irritate or cause allergies

It may be surprising, but natural cosmetics often contain more potential allergens than their conventional counterparts. The main sources are typically essential oils, plant extracts, and natural fragrance compositions.

Manufacturers legally declare allergens from essential oils with an asterisk (*), accompanied by the note “constituents of natural essential oils”. However, these allergens are only listed if their concentration is above a certain legal threshold. For leave-on products such as creams this is 0.01%, while for rinse-off products like gels, the limit is 0.1%. The full chemical composition of the oil remains a secret to the consumer.

This is compliant with the law, but in my opinion, it is unfair to the customer. It suggests that these strange-sounding names are normal, natural ingredients, when in fact they are allergens and have an irritating effect.

A Warning for Sensitive Skin!

Even if no allergens are listed on a product’s INCI, they may still be present. This can happen when they are in concentrations below the legal declaration threshold. This poses a particular risk for those with sensitive skin, atopic dermatitis, rosacea, or eczema. For these individuals, even trace amounts of an allergen are enough to cause a reaction or irritation.

Why is this a problem?

• Lack of Awareness: Most people do not know that a ‘natural essential oil’ is a mixture of dozens of compounds, including potentially irritating ones.
• A False Sense of Security: “Naturalness” certificates do not verify the skin tolerance of ingredients, focusing only on their origin.

Myth 4: Natural cosmetics do not contain potentially dangerous ingredients

While many people worry about synthetic chemicals like parabens in conventional cosmetic products, the truth is more complex. There is a positive trend of eliminating CMR substances (carcinogenic, mutagenic, toxic for reproduction) from conventional cosmetics. The overall issue of safety, however, is more complex than it appears. What is less known is that some ingredients that raise doubts can also be found in natural and organic formulas.

Example: Tea Tree Oil. This ingredient, despite a great deal of documented evidence of its therapeutic effects, has undergone too little research regarding its safety. It is currently being investigated for potential CMR properties. Some of its compounds are suspected of having a mutagenic effect – for now, however, the data comes exclusively from studies on rats.

Producers of this raw material, like any other, have the right to object to its withdrawal from the market. To do so, they can present a safety dossier with clear evidence of the ingredient’s safety. Independent institutions also conduct additional analyses. Subsequently, the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) assesses the risk based on all available data, from both the manufacturers and scientific institutions.

Myth 5: Natural fragrance is safer, and its composition is known

This is untrue. Allergens derived from essential oils or plant extracts have an identical irritating effect to synthetic fragrance substances. They are all volatile, penetrating the skin and mucous membranes to cause reactions in sensitive individuals. They can also enter the bloodstream quite quickly. Make up and makeup products often contain fragrances and can cause similar allergic reactions, so it’s important to be aware of all sources of potential allergens.

A manufacturer might disclose a fragrance’s composition by listing the natural essential oils or absolutes used. However, even when they declare the legally required allergens, we never see the full list of chemical ingredients. Every essential oil is an incredibly complex mixture, sometimes consisting of several hundred different chemical compounds. The exact content is not always known, and concentrations depend on the origin or batch of the raw material. Therefore, it makes no real difference whether a fragrance ingredient is synthetic or natural. In either case, as consumers, we never know its full chemical composition.

The most thoroughly studied essential oils are those that comply with the pharmacopoeia. These are oils that are tested for conformity to a standard, which is an identity test for the essential oil. If a producer performs these tests, they will readily provide reports for the batch they are selling. However, such tests are expensive, and not every producer wants to do them – it is not a requirement. An example of pharmaceutical-quality oils (compliant with the pharmacopoeia) are some of the essential oils from the company Bamer.

The claim of a “natural fragrance” can lull consumers into a false sense of security. Meanwhile, the list of fragrance allergens, which originally included 23 items, now numbers over 60 – and most are of natural origin. This list may grow again in the future.

How to check your tolerance for a fragrance?

• Smell it. If the scent is too intense or gives you a headache, avoid the product. I get headaches more often from synthetic fragrances, but your experience may or may not be similar.
• Do a patch test. Apply a small amount of the cosmetic behind your ear. Observe the skin for 12-24 hours. If there is no redness, itching or other allergic reactions, you can use it.

In Conclusion

The “naturalness” of a cosmetic guarantees neither superior efficacy nor greater safety. Both natural and conventional products are subject to the same restrictive standards. These rules on quality, purity, and safety are in force across the entire European Union.

So, where do natural cosmetics really shine? In the richness of their active ingredients – such as unrefined plant oils and butters that are packed with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. They work gently but effectively to:

• Protect against water loss (TEWL), strengthening the skin’s hydrolipidic barrier.
• Reduce tension and regulate sebum, creating optimal conditions for regeneration.
• Safeguard against environmental stressors such as frost, smog, and UV rays.

Are you looking for skincare products, like a natural cream that is safe enough for the skin around the eyes, free from allergens and other potentially harmful ingredients? One that is hypoallergenic and, most importantly, will truly nurture your skin? Try Cream and enjoy healthy, irritation-free skin.

And remember: the key is conscious choice. By all means, reach for natural cosmetics for their nourishing properties. However, you must always check the INCI list and avoid allergens, especially if you have sensitive, atopi, or acne-prone skin.

Aleksandra