Oncology Skincare: A Complete Guide to Skin, Hair & Nail Care During Cancer Treatment

How can you care for your skin, hair, and nails during cancer treatment? Anti-cancer therapies, such as chemotherapy and radiotherapy, often cause dryness, irritation, and skin hypersensitivity. Therefore, a proper skincare routine during these procedures is crucial. It is the key to managing common skin problems, alleviating uncomfortable side effects, and caring for fragile skin.

In this article, I will share my knowledge on the skin changes that can occur during therapy. I will also provide practical tips on how to select the right cosmetic products. With this guidance, you can reduce the risk of worsening these side effects.

For those looking for immediate recommendations, a full list is available at the end of this guide. It includes a selection of products and treatments designed for patients undergoing cancer therapy. Additionally, I have listed recommended facilities that provide specialised care adapted to the skin’s unique needs during this time.

Key Takeaways

• Chemotherapy, radiotherapy, and combination therapy are methods that have been used for years in the fight against cancer. Unfortunately, the effects of these treatments are not limited to cancerous cells, as they also impact healthy tissues. They particularly affect cells that divide rapidly, which includes the cells that make up our skin, hair, and nails.
• During cancer treatment, the skin requires special care and attention. Even minor neglect can intensify dryness, itching, or irritation. It is therefore vital to use cosmetics specifically created for its sensitivity.
• From my experience working with oncology patients, I know it is crucial to use specialist products both during and after therapy. The right cosmetics don’t just moisturise; they also actively support the regeneration of damaged skin. Look for nourishing ingredients like natural oils, panthenol, allantoin, and ceramides.

The Skin Reaction for the Oncological Therapy

During cancer treatment, patients can experience skin reactions on any part of the body, but especially in the treated area. Understanding these reactions is crucial in order to respond to them appropriately.

1. Chemotherapy: A Dual Action
While chemotherapy effectively destroys cancer cells, it also damages healthy tissues – especially those with a high metabolism, like the cells of the epidermis. Its action weakens the hydrolipidic barrier, leading to:
– Excessive dryness and tightness,
– Redness and itching,
– Peeling of the epidermis,
– Secondary inflammation (e.g. drug-induced acne),
– Sore skin, sometimes developing into open skin sores.

2. Radiotherapy: Early vs. Late Reactions
Radiotherapy primarily affects the stem and differentiating cells in the epidermis, which triggers an early reaction (visible after just a few days):
– Erythema (redness),
– Swelling,
– Painful peeling.

A late reaction, meanwhile, develops in the dermis (after several weeks or months):
– Atrophy of the sebaceous glands,
– Hyperpigmentation or changes in skin tone and skin colour,
– Permanent thinning of the skin.

3. Hand-Foot Syndrome: When Your Skin Cries for Help
Some patients develop painful swelling on the hands and feet with blisters, known as Hand-Foot Syndrome (HFS). In severe cases, this may require a temporary pause in chemotherapy. The early introduction of emollients and cooling packs can help to delay this side effect.

4. Photosensitivity: The Invisible Threat
A weakened hydrolipidic barrier allows UV rays to penetrate more deeply than usual. Certain treatments cause photosensitivity, meaning even brief sun exposure can lead to sunburn.

How to Care for your Skin During Chemotherapy?

Although chemotherapy focuses on fighting the cancerous disease, skincare during this period is just as crucial. Creams used during therapy should combine regenerating and protective ingredients to simultaneously:

• Soothe dryness – to counteract feelings of tightness and cracking of the epidermis.
• Support natural regeneration – to accelerate the renewal of damaged cells.
• Reduce discomfort – to minimise the pain resulting from excessive skin tension.

Gentle Cleansing – The Foundation of Care

Using hypoallergenic cleansing products like gentle cream cleansers is not a whim, but a necessity during chemotherapy. Why?
– Products without fragrances and alcohol minimise the risk of irritation,
– Mild surfactants (e.g. decyl glucoside) do not disrupt the hydrolipidic barrier.

If you are unsure which cleansing cosmetic to choose, select one that is designed for babies from their first day of life. Why?
– They should have confirmed hypoallergenicity,
– They meet rigorous standards of microbiological purity.

Safe Hygiene: Small Changes, Big Relief

Hot baths can further weaken the skin’s hydrolipidic barrier, intensifying dryness and irritation. Therefore, I recommend replacing them with a lukewarm shower (max 5 minutes) – warm water at a temperature of 32-35°C will not disrupt the skin’s natural protection.

– For washing: Instead of rough sponges, choose a soft microfibre washcloth. Its delicate structure minimises the friction that could damage the sensitive epidermis.
– For drying: Avoid vigorous rubbing. Instead, gently pat your skin drywith a soft towel. This simple move prevents from skim microdamages and minimises the risk of inflammation.

Why Waterless Cosmetics? The Foundation of Skin Regeneration

During chemotherapy, regular moisturising is not a luxury, but a necessity. Reach for waterless products – such as butters (e.g., shea, mango) and oils (e.g., linseed, evening primrose). Why are they a good choice?

1. Zero Preservatives – Zero Irritation
   Many traditional creams contain preservatives (e.g., parabens, phenoxyethanol) that can cause contact dermatitis. When the skin is hypersensitive during treatment, even a small amount of these substances can slow down the healing process. Waterless formulas eliminate this risk.
2. A Protective Film That Acts Like a Shield
   Butters and oils create an occlusive protective layer on the skin. This acts like a ‘coat’ that:
   • Protects against chafing from clothes or bedding,
   • Prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL),
   • Reduces the friction that can intensify itching.
3. Elasticity = Less Pain
   Dry skin cracks and tightens easily, which causes pain during movement. Linseed oil, rich in omega-3 fatty acids, softens the skin and increases its elasticity. This makes everyday activities (like reaching for a glass) less of a burden.
4. Natural Ingredients Without Harsh ‘Actives’
   During this time, you should avoid ingredients like retinol, acids, and vitamin C, as they can worsen irritation. Instead, waterless cosmetics deliver safe, nourishing ingredients:
   • Vitamin E in shea butter – neutralises free radicals,
   • Phytosterols in evening primrose oil – strengthen the lipid barrier.

Sunscreens – The Highest Level of Protection

Throughout the entire chemotherapy period, you must use SPF 50+ mineral sunscreens. During this time, the skin is like a sieve – UVA rays penetrate more deeply, increasing the risk of hyperpigmentation and permanent damage.

My recommendation: Creams from the children’s range by the brand Laboratoires de Biarritz.

• No nanomaterials – Traditional mineral filters (like zinc oxide) remain on the skin’s surface, without penetrating the weakened epidermis.
• Hypoallergenic
• High microbiological purity

After finishing chemotherapy, you might be tempted by lightly tinted creams (these often contain nanomaterials, which is why they don’t leave a white cast). Below, I have listed my favourite…

Skincare After Chemotherapy

Even after your treatment finishes, your skin still requires special treatment to return to a good condition. During this recovery period, reach for specialist products created with oncology patients in mind. Their formulas are free from allergens, and you will find active ingredients that repair, not just mask, the damage.

Key Ingredients in Post-Chemotherapy Cosmetics:

1. Natural oils (e.g. argan, avocado)
   • They strengthen the lipid barrier.
   • They reduce feelings of tightness.
   • They accelerate the healing of micro-damage.
2. Shea butter:
   • Acts as a natural occlusive – protecting against moisture loss.
   • Softens even the most hardened areas of epidermis.
3. Hyaluronic acid:
   • Moisturises every layer of the skin – even its large molecules create a “water cushion” on the surface that soothes irritation.
   • My advice: Always apply a layer of oil or butter over your hyaluronic acid. This creates a barrier that “locks in” the hydration and prevents water evaporation.
4. Ectoin:
   • Stabilises the skin’s microbiome – especially important for the sensitive scalp after hair loss.
   • Reduces transpepidermal water loss (TEWL), which lessens dryness on the skin and scalp.
   • Protects against oxidative stress.

Active Ingredients After 6 Months: Time to Strengthen the Skin

Six months after finishing chemotherapy, you can gradually reintroduce cosmetics with active ingredients. Why is this a worthwhile step?

• Coenzyme Q10 (Serum +Q10):
  • Accelerates cellular metabolism – The skin rebuilds its collagen fibres more quickly.
  • Improves elasticity – Our instrumental tests show that after just 6 weeks of use, the skin has an average of 18% fewer wrinkles, as it becomes denser. This is because CoQ10 can help stimulate collagen production.
  • Neutralises free radicals – It acts as a ‘shield’ against photoaging by reducing oxidative damage caused by UV radiation.

You must continue to use creams with SPF.

How to care for your skin during radiation therapy?

Like chemotherapy, radiotherapy damages the DNA of both cancerous and healthy cells. The difference lies in the mechanism: ionising radiation directly destroys the cells’ ability to divide, leading to localised skin damage. To minimise the risk of complications, follow these key principles:

Wear Loose Fitting Clothes:

– Choose natural and breathable materials (silk, cotton),
– Avoid tight clothing with seams in the irradiated treatment area, as pressure and friction can worsen irritation,
– For breast or groin irradiation, opt for seamless medical underwear to reduce the risk of chafing.

Protect From The Sun:

– Cover irradiated areas with UPF 50+ UV-protective clothing,
– If you must go outside, use an umbrella or a wide-brimmed hat,
– Avoid sun exposure even on cloudy days, as UVA radiation penetrates clouds.

First Aid for Radiation Dermatitis:

Early Reaction (erythema, burning):
– When the skin is hot and red after treatment, apply cooling immediately. I recommend keeping a hydrogel in the fridge (at 4°C) and applying it for 15-20 minutes post-treatment. It works better than ice as it does not irritate the skin while still reducing inflammation.

Broken Skin (erosions, wounds):
-Never use regular cosmetics! They may contain substances that slow healing or cause infection. In such cases, always consult your doctor or pharmacist. They typically recommend medical devices such as hydrocolloid gel dressings, creams with silver sulfadiazine (for their antibacterial properties), or sterile soothing foams.

Care of Irradiated Skin:

Gentle skin washing during radiotherapy is highly recommended:
– Wash skin undergoing radiotherapy as often as the rest of your body, but with extreme care. Use lukewarm water (32-35°C) and hypoallergenic cleansing gels without SLS or alcohol. Avoid hot baths, as high temperatures worsen dryness and irritation.
– Do not rub the skin while washing. Instead, gently cleanse it with your hand or a soft microfibre washcloth.
– After washing, pat the skin gently with a soft towel (never rub!). Choose a towel made from natural materials (e.g., bamboo) that won’t leave fibres on the sensitive epidermis.
– This method can reduce the risk of acute radiation dermatitis by up to 30%.

Avoid Deodorants:

– In areas undergoing radiation (e.g., armpits, chest area), avoid using your normal deodorants and antiperspirants. The alcohol, fragrances, and aluminium salts they contain can cause chemical burns or intensify inflammation.

Avoid Shaving:

– It is crucial to avoid shaving the treated area, as your skin is more sensitive during cancer treatment and a razor can cause micro-cuts or a painful rash. Other forms of hair removal, such as waxing or depilatory creams, should also be avoided on sore skin as they can cause significant irritation and increase the risk of infection.

Soothes Dry Lips:

– The same principles apply to lips, which can become extremely dry. Keeping a simple lip balm or petroleum jelly nearby is essential.

Skin Care After Radiotherapy

PAfter finishing radiotherapy, the skin requires specialist regeneration to rebuild its protective barrier and alleviate side effects. Dermo-cosmetics for oncology patients should contain:

• Antioxidants such as vitamins A, C, and E, which protect skin cells from damage.
• Plant extracts, such as calendula and aloe, which have a soothing effect and support skin repair. It is important that these cosmetics are hypoallergenic and also suitable for use around the eyes and mucous membranes—such products meet the highest category of microbiological purity.
• Soothing ingredients such as D-panthenol, hyaluronic acid, beeswax, and plant oils.

Cosmetics intended for skincare after radiotherapy should be carefully selected to support the regeneration process. Continue to avoid allergens – it’s not a suggestion, it’s a necessity, as they will slow down the skin’s regeneration process.

Hair Loss During Chemotherapy: How to Care for Your Scalp

Hair loss affects up to 65% of patients undergoing chemotherapy and is often associated with significant stress and a decline in self-esteem. This mechanism is a result of how cytostatic drugs work – these medications damage rapidly dividing cells, including those in the hair follicles. Although not all chemotherapy regimens lead to complete hair loss (e.g., targeted therapy), polychemotherapy is the most toxic in this regard.

Key Principles of Care:

1. Gentle Cleansing and Moisturising:
   • Use hypoallergenic shampoos without SLS and alcohol, which will not irritate the sensitive scalp.
   • If hair loss occurs, regularly moisturise the scalp with soothing and protective creams.
2. Protection from External Factors:
   • Wear breathable head coverings made from natural materials (bamboo, silk) to protect against strong sunlight and bitting cold winds.
   • Avoid tight caps, which can worsen irritation.
3. Stimulating Regrowth:
   • After finishing therapy, you can introduce a serum that stimulates circulation and accelerates hair growth.

Why Does This Work?

• Hypoallergenic shampoos maintain the scalp’s normal pH (5.5), preventing inflammation.
• Moisturising the scalp reduces the itching and dryness that often accompany chemotherapy.
• UV protection is crucial, as the sun’s rays can damage weakened hair follicles.

Nail Care During Oncological Treatment

The nails of oncology patients often become brittle, prone to splitting, and susceptible to damage – a common side effect of cytostatic drugs. In my practice, I recommend two proven methods that help to maintain their healthy appearance and accelerate regeneration.

The use of cooling therapies, such as wearing cool gloves and socks, can help prevent nail damage during chemotherapy. This type of glove is worn while the chemotherapy is being administered. This limits blood circulation in the cooled area, which in turn helps to reduce irritation.

Massages and Treatments for Oncology Patients

What is an Oncology Massage? The ‘Butterfly Touch’: A Gentleness That Heals

In recent years, I have observed a growing interest in massage as an element of holistic care for oncology patients. However, not every technique is safe during this period. Oncology massage, known as the ‘Butterfly Touch’, is a specialised form of therapy designed for individuals during or after their treatment. It is often used as a complementary modality to help alleviate treatment-related symptoms like anxiety and stress.

What distinguishes the ‘Butterfly Touch’?

• Gentleness Above All: The treatment consists of a subtle, stroking touch along the body (including the head), which does not exert pressure on the tissues.
• Safety: The technique is adapted to the patient’s condition, taking into account the presence of vascular ports, a stoma, or areas where lymph nodes have been removed.
• Specialist Products: The ingredients in the cosmetics used are adapted for sensitive skin.

Therapist’s Competence: The Key to Success

Oncology massage requires specialist training. In my practice, I work exclusively with therapists who possess:

• A certificate from the Spa for Cancer foundation – the only training organisation in this field in Poland.
• Anatomical knowledge – an understanding of the location of implants, post-operative scars, and movement limitations.
• Experience working with patients during chemo- or radiotherapy.

Anna Hencka-Zyser: A Pioneer of Polish Oncological Cosmetology

The founder of the Spa for Cancer foundation has been training therapists in oncology massage since 2018. Her proprietary method combines:

• Medical Knowledge – constant cooperation with oncologists and surgeons.
• Empathy – techniques that reduce anxiety and improve well-being.
• A Scientific Approach – a training programme based on current scientific knowledge in the field of oncological care.

“The quality of life during oncological treatment becomes an enormous asset in getting through the illness and recovery process. Massage, by definition, is more than just a technique; it is an intimate experience of acceptance and healing, a touch that, during oncological treatment, is most often associated with medical examination! Massage changes the process of looking at one’s own body as an object of research and disease and transforms it into a mystical ritual of rediscovering oneself! Relaxation, a calmed nervous system, healthy sleep, and beautiful skin are the first step to supporting yourself on the path to health.” emphasizes Anna Hencka-Zyser.

Cosmetic treatments for oncology patients support regeneration and improve the overall condition of the skin. Such treatments may include the aforementioned massages, as well as moisturising, gentle exfoliation, and the use of oncology-specific cosmetics.

More information about massages and treatments for patients during and after treatment can be found on the Spa for Cancer foundation’s website (the website is in Polish, but you can translate it automatically). It is worth considering such treatments as an integral part of the treatment and regeneration process. There you will find a list of salons in Poland that offer such treatments.

Below is a list of products that may be useful during and after the treatment period. I have selected the cosmetics in such a way that they do not contain allergens, contain large amounts of emollients, and do not contain active ingredients that should be avoided during treatment. I have not used all the cosmetics, so I cannot comment everywhere on the sensory experience.

Face and Body Cleansing Cosmetics:

1. Smoothing Cleanser A luxurious cleansing preparation that softens the hardened epidermis and won’t leave a tight feeling. It can be used as a makeup remover, a cleanser, a mask, or a very gentle exfoliant twice a week. It all depends on how thin your skin is. The thinner it is, the less frequently you should use this product until you have finished chemotherapy. It is a clinically tested, exclusive cosmetic. Price: 97.5 EUR
2. Aleppo Soap A budget-friendly cosmetic for washing the face and body. It’s best to choose the 1% version (1% laurel oil, which contains myristic acid—a saturated fatty acid). Choose a soap without added fragrances. It is best used with a plastic washcloth. On the washcloth, the soap will create a dense and soft foam, which will increase the pleasure of washing sensitive skin. It does not leave the skin feeling tight. Price: approx. 4-5 EUR
3. Allerco MED An emollient cleansing gel for the face and body, without added fragrances and with a neutral pH. Price: approx. 8-10 EUR

Shampoos for Scalp and Hair:

1. Allerco MED A moisturising shampoo for hair and scalp. Fragrance-free. Price: 8-10 EUR
2. Yope Hydrate My Hair A shampoo for a dry scalp. It does not contain allergens, I really like the ingredients list, and additionally, it contains agents that chelate magnesium and calcium, which is very important with hard water—the skin suffers less. Price: 7-8 EUR

Creams for Face, Body, and Nails

1. Cream A specialist moisturiser for the face, neck and body during chemotherapy. It reduces skin dryness immediately after application. When applied to damp skin, it will act as an occlusive and will soften and improve the skin’s elasticity. It has a protective effect, doesn’t rub off, and doesn’t make the skin greasy. It reduces skin tension, smooths, and inhibits water loss from the skin. It is used by oncology patients, as well as by massage therapists for the ‘Butterfly Touch’ oncology massage. Clinically tested and hypoallergenic. Price: from 74 EUR

1. Safflower, Linseed, or Jojoba Oil For the body and nails. Prices vary, and they can be bought in herbal shops. Pay attention to the expiry date and how the oil was stored (don’t take ones that were sitting in a sunny shop window). Choose a single oil, e.g., safflower or jojoba, without added essential oils. This is a good and budget-friendly solution. Apply oils to damp skin; it may feel a bit greasy at first, but it will bring relief. Liquid oils have a predominance of unsaturated fatty acids, which reduce skin tension and support repair processes. Use after your evening shower. Price depending on the type: 7-15 EUR
2. Biarritz Crème Solaire Teintée SPF50 This is my favourite tinted sunscreen. The skin looks very good after using it and is additionally moisturised. It has a nice colour. The cream should be applied over a skincare cream. It effectively protects against UV radiation. Price: approx. 17-22 EUR

Other Useful Products:

1. Kserostemin A mouthwash, “artificial saliva,” it is a medical device that you can buy at the pharmacy. It will be particularly useful when treating areas of the head; use it during radiotherapy. Mucositis is one of the common side effects of oncological treatment. Price: 5-7 EUR
2. Avène Thermal Water A cosmetic worth spraying on the skin before applying rich creams or oils. Price: 8-10 EUR

Summary: Skincare as a Part of Oncological Therapy

Proper care for your skin, hair, and nails during cancer treatment is not simply a matter of aesthetics. It is a key element in improving a patient’s quality of life. Through simple but consistent actions, you can limit uncomfortable side effects. This approach also helps you regain a sense of control over your own body.

A New Approach in Oncology: The Patient at the Centre

Public awareness is evolving: an oncology patient is no longer viewed solely through the prism of their disease. Today, we know that they have a right to comfort – even during chemotherapy. The healing process also encompasses one’s mental state and self-esteem. Specialist cosmetics (e.g., lines for post-radiation skin) are not a luxury, but a standard of care.

When in doubt, consult your doctor or oncology nurse about your choice of cosmetics, as some ingredients can interfere with therapy. Use the knowledge base of foundations (like Spa for Cancer), which bring together experts combining medicine and cosmetology.

I hope my article helps you to cope more easily with the side effects of therapy and that your recovery process after the last treatment will be a new, but good, chapter in your life. If you know of any interesting cosmetics that could support skincare during this period, please let me know. If you need a skincare consultation, you can write to me at contact@alexandrakubas.com.

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