Active Ingredients in Cosmetics: How to Choose the Best for Your Skin?

Active ingredients in cosmetics are the substances that directly influence the health and appearance of your skin. They are responsible for targeted actions such as moisturising, reducing wrinkles, soothing irritation, and addressing other skin concerns. The key to effective skincare, however, is a conscious selection of its ingredients. This ensures they can deliver the best possible results.

The sheer amount of available skincare products can be overwhelming. That’s why understanding active ingredients is crucial for making an informed choice.

Key takeaways

Active ingredients are the foundation of targeted care. Ingredients like hyaluronic acid, retinol, and ceramides can significantly improve the skin’s condition, provided they meet its current needs .
Hydration is a priority – even for oily skin. Without a strong hydrolipidic barrier, no active ingredient can work optimally. Dehydrated oily skin is more common than you might think and is often the result of an imbalanced water-lipid barrier.
Introduce new skincare products gradually to prevent over-stimulation. Your skin needs time to adapt. Instead of testing several products at once, introduce them one by one and observe your skin’s reaction. If in doubt, consult a dermatologist, cosmetologist, or set up a free consultation with our expert (for those signed to our newsletter).

Some active cosmetic ingredients have the ability to penetrate through the stratum corneum into the deeper layers of the skin. However, many other ingredients are designed to work on the surface of the epidermis or just beneath it. This approach is perfectly fine and often very effective. Our skin has several layers, each with a different function. For this reason, you shouldn’t exclusively seek out products that promise deep skin penetration. To be effective, some ingredients don’t need to be absorbed deeply at all. While cosmetics work within the epidermis, our primary area of interest is often its outermost protective layer: the stratum corneum.

what the cross-section of the skin looks like

Choosing the Right Active Ingredients for Your Skin Type

The right choice of active ingredients depends on your skin type, your skincare goals, and the other substances within a cosmetic’s formula. Both dry and oily skin can suffer from dehydration, but they react in different ways. Oily skin often defends against water loss by overproducing sebum, which leads to a shiny complexion. Dry skin, on the other hand, doesn’t produce enough of its own lipids to retain moisture. In both cases, skin hydration is crucial, but it must be tailored to the specific nature of the problem.

Rosacea-prone skin, for instance, requires ingredients that thicken its structure and strengthen capillary walls. Look for actives that stimulate collagen production, such as peptides, coenzyme Q10, and vitamin C. Acne-prone skin, on the other hand, has different needs. It responds best to soothing substances like niacinamide and panthenol, alongside ingredients that restore balance to sebaceous glands.

An effective skincare routine begins with one thing: understanding your skin’s unique needs. From there, you can make a conscious choice about which cosmetics to use. Identifying specific ingredients allows you to target your concerns with precision. Ultimately, this is what leads to a healthy, radiant appearance.

Dry Skin: Key Ingredients

This skin type is characterised by a lack of sufficient hydration, which manifests as roughness and a susceptibility to irritation. Hyaluronic acid is indispensable for this skin type. As a powerful humectant, it binds water deep within the skin to smooth the complexion and improve elasticity. However, these serums are typically water-based, and water can evaporate quickly from the skin’s surface. To lock in that hydration, always layer an oil-based or richer product over your hyaluronic acid serum. This creates an occlusive layer, making the hydrating effect incomparably better.

Ingredients that rebuild the hydrolipidic barrier are just as important:

Ceramides – These rebuild the skin barrier, protecting the skin from moisture loss and external factors. They are often called the skin’s “intercellular cement.”
Trehalose – This acts like a ‘protective coat’ by moisturising and supporting the skin’s defences, which accelerates regeneration. It has hygroscopic properties, much like hyaluronic acid, and stores moisture.
Glycerin – This acts as a humectant, drawing water into the epidermis to provide immediate hydration.

Oily Skin: Sebum Regulation

Oily skin requires special attention due to an overproduction of sebum, which leads to shine, blackheads, and acne. The key to managing this skin type is using active ingredients that offer a two-pronged approach: regulating sebum secretion and preventing inflammation.

Azelaic acid reduces not only excess sebum but also redness and the bacteria responsible for acne. Niacinamide has a sebostatic effect while also strengthening the hydrolipidic barrier, which minimises skin irritation. Retinoids such as retinol accelerate the exfoliation of dead skin cells, thereby preventing clogged pores.

It is also worth paying attention to unsaturated fatty acids (e.g., omega-6). Working on the skin’s surface, these ingredients inhibit excessive sebum secretion and protect against water loss (TEWL). This helps the skin to maintain an appropriate level of hydration. They also reduce the visibility of pores and support the skin’s natural regeneration process.

Skin Prone to Redness: Supporting Collagen and Elastin Synthesis

Skin prone to redness and visible capillaries requires ingredients that strengthen its overall structure. The aim is to thicken collagen fibres and reduce the appearance of broken capillaries. To do this, the key is using active substances that stimulate new collagen synthesis. It’s also crucial to protect the skin from factors that can worsen the problem, such as stress and temperature changes.

Niacinamide is an excellent choice as it strengthens the walls of blood vessels, reduces redness, and helps regulate microcirculation. Hyaluronic acid moisturises even the most sensitive areas, improving the skin’s structure. Coenzyme Q10 accelerates the regeneration of damaged collagen fibres while also neutralising the free radicals responsible for elastin degradation. It is my favourite ingredient for improving skin density.

Retinol can also be effective, as it aids in cellular renewal, evens out skin texture, and stimulates fibroblasts to produce collagen. Remember, however, that a gentle approach is crucial for this skin type – aggressive exfoliation can exacerbate the problem.

Hyperpigmentation: Brightening and Evening Skin Tone

Tackling hyperpigmentation requires active ingredients that target the root of the problem: the overproduction of melanin. Here are three substances with proven effectiveness:

Azelaic Acid It inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for melanin synthesis, thereby gradually lightening dark spots. Additionally, it has an anti-inflammatory effect, which is crucial for post-acne hyperpigmentation.
Coenzyme Q10 This penetrates deeply into the skin, accelerating its regeneration. By supporting the skin’s natural exfoliation process, it gradually reduces the appearance of discolouration while also protecting against oxidative stress.
Retinol This works at the dermal level: it helps to break up accumulated melanin, evens out skin tone, and reduces sun spots. Caution! Due to its potential for irritation and increased photosensitivity, it is essential that you always combine it with an SPF 50+ sunscreen.

The regular use of these ingredients, combined with daily sun protection, is the most effective path to achieving a uniform, radiant complexion.

Oily & Acne-Prone Skin: Fighting Bacteria and Regulating Sebum

Acne is a problem that many people struggle with, regardless of age. Although its causes are complex and require a holistic approach, the key to skincare is avoiding aggressive methods. Avoid drying out the skin, as this can paradoxically trigger an increase in sebum production. Instead, focus on ingredients that regulate sebaceous gland function, support regeneration, and moisturise without clogging pores.

Retinoids and acids (AHA/BHA) are proven allies in the fight against acne. Retinol exfoliates dead skin, reduces sebum, and brightens hyperpigmentation, but its action can be intense – so I recommend introducing it gradually. Acids like salicylic acid and mandelic cleanse pores and normalise gland function, though their effectiveness depends on concentration.

Coenzyme Q10 works more gently but just as effectively. You can safely combine it with both acids and retinol, making it an ideal choice for sensitive skin. Unsaturated fatty acids (omega-6) also deserve attention, as they both inhibit excessive sebum and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This dual action creates the right conditions to unblock pores and smooth the skin.

And what about stubborn post-acne hyperpigmentation and scars? Here, three ingredients prove their worth:

Azelaic acid, which gently exfoliates and brightens marks, and is safe even during pregnancy (with a doctor’s consultation).
Retinol – however, for deep scars, it is worth seeking professional dermatological treatments that use higher concentrations under specialist supervision.
Coenzyme Q10, which accelerates skin metabolism and regeneration, helping to clear post-acne marks and some scars more quickly.

Wrinkles: Smoothing and Regeneration

Wrinkles are a natural effect of the skin’s ageing process. However, the right active ingredients can significantly slow their formation and reduce the depth of existing lines. Effective anti-ageing skincare routine relies on substances that stimulate collagen synthesis, provide deep hydration, and neutralise free radicals.

Retinol: Stimulating Collagen and Elastin. Retinol stimulates fibroblasts to produce collagen and elastin, the two proteins responsible for the skin’s density and elasticity. This helps to reduce the depth of wrinkles, even out skin texture, and improve firmness.
Peptides: Supporting Fibre Regeneration. Peptides not only stimulate the synthesis of new collagen fibres but also support the repair of existing ones. This translates to improved firmness and a visibly smoother skin surface.
Coenzyme Q10: Protection from Oxidative Stress. Coenzyme Q10 supports cellular regeneration, fights the free radicals that accelerate collagen degradation, and evens out skin tone. It is safe for all skin types, including sensitive. According to scientific studies, a 1% concentration can help reduce wrinkles by an average of 27% in 6 months. Our serum with coenzyme q10 Our Serum + Q10, which also contains flavonoids, has been shown in clinical studies to reduce wrinkles by an average of 18% in just 6 weeks.
Hyaluronic Acid: Hydration and Plumping. Hyaluronic acid binds water in the dermis (1 molecule ≈ 250 molecules of H₂O), providing excellent hydration and improving skin elasticity. Its natural levels in the skin decline with age, so it’s important to replenish it in your daily skincare routine.

A Breakdown of Key Active Ingredients in Skin Care Products

Some active ingredients have a broad spectrum of action and are suitable for various skin types. Active ingredients are found in a wide variety of skin care products, including creams, serums, and lotions, where they deliver targeted benefits. Here is an overview of the most important ones:

Antioxidants

Vitamin C – In its ascorbic acid form, it has antioxidant properties and evens out skin tone. A stable form (Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate) does not require a low pH, allowing it to enhance the effects of retinol.
Coenzyme Q10 – Also known as ubiquinone, it occurs naturally in every cell of the human body, which is why it is very well-tolerated. It regenerates the skin, brightens hyperpigmentation, reduces expression lines, and protects against oxidative stress. It can be safely combined with other ingredients, making it the number one universal active substance.
Retinol – This active form of Vitamin A helps reduce wrinkles by stimulating fibroblasts, improves skin texture, and brightens the complexion. It also works on acne lesions. The use of retinol always requires sun protection as it increases the skin’s sensitivity to UV.
Resveratrol – Possesses anti-inflammatory and powerful antioxidant properties. It inhibits the proliferation of epidermal cells, stimulates their differentiation, and increases skin elasticity. It can also brighten hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase (the enzyme responsible for melanin production).

AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids) Acids

Salicylic Acid (BHA) – At concentrations up to 10%, it softens the skin; above 10%, it has a cleansing and exfoliating effect. It dissolves keratin plugs in the hair follicle, reduces sebum production, and has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.
Lactic Acid (AHA) – At concentrations below 10%, it moisturises and softens the skin; at higher concentrations, it exfoliates. It can penetrate the stratum corneum.
Mandelic Acid (AHA) – Exfoliates dead cells, brightens, and has an astringent effect on enlarged pores. It is gentle enough not to cause irritation even with daily use (at recommended concentrations). Recommended for acne-prone skin.
Glycolic Acid (AHA) – Strongly exfoliates, stimulates cell renewal, increases skin elasticity, and affects skin tone. It is best used in a professional salon setting, as irritation can easily occur.

Other Ingredients

Azelaic Acid – Brightens the skin, improves tone, and regulates sebum secretion. It has antibacterial and exfoliating effects (at concentrations above 10%).
Niacinamide – Brightens existing spots and inhibits the formation of new ones (acts against hyperpigmentation). It is particularly helpful for acne, which often leaves dark marks. It also combats inflammation and inhibits sebum production.
Unsaturated fatty acids (omega-6) – Particularly linoleic acid. It has a therapeutic effect on both dry skin (reducing tightness) and oily skin (inhibiting sebum secretion). Cosmetics with omega-6 moisturise (by inhibiting TEWL) and have a sebostatic effect, which helps to unblock sebaceous glands and supports acne treatment. The skin becomes smooth and soft.
Urea – At a concentration of up to 10%, it moisturises the skin due to its hygroscopic properties. Above 10%, it has anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and exfoliating effects.
Hyaluronic Acid – This is a glycosaminoglycan that binds and stores water in the dermis (1 molecule ≈ 250 molecules of H₂O). Its levels decrease with age, leading to dryness, loss of elasticity, and wrinkles.

How to Use Active Ingredients Safely

The safe use of active ingredients is crucial for avoiding irritation and side effects. Your skin has a limit and can easily become over-stimulated. For this reason, applying too many products with different active ingredients can actually do more harm than good.

Fundamental Safety Rules

Less is more – Avoid introducing multiple active ingredients at the same time. Instead of using different product combinations day after day (as influencers often recommend), focus on one key ingredient for a minimum of 4–6 weeks.
Patience is key – Visible effects take time, depending on your skin’s condition, age, and external factors (climate, stress, diet). The full epidermal renewal cycle takes 30–40 days, so you should only assess a product’s effectiveness after this period.
SPF 50+ is mandatory – Retinoids, AHA/BHA acids, and other photosensitising ingredients require UV protection. A lack of sun protection will lead to hyperpigmentation (often deep and difficult to remove) and a deterioration in the skin’s condition.

Adapting Your Skincare to the Seasons

During the autumn and winter months, when sun exposure is lower, you can introduce retinoids and higher concentrations of acids. In the summer, opt for hydrating ingredients (hyaluronic acid, urea, glycerin) and mild acids (lactic, mandelic) in low concentrations.

What to Absolutely Avoid

Retinol should not be combined with acids – they can weaken each other’s effects and increase the risk of irritation. You should also avoid products containing allergens (e.g., denatured alcohol, strong fragrances) that can intensify skin reactions. Choose hypoallergenic cosmetics and always test new products gradually.

In Conclusion

Understanding how active ingredients work and how to choose them is the foundation of effective skincare. Regardless of your skin type or individual concerns, the right active ingredients can significantly improve your skin’s condition. Proven substances like coenzyme Q10, hyaluronic acid, retinol, vitamin C, and niacinamide are all excellent choices. The key to success, however, lies in their conscious and safe application. This means you should always start with low concentrations, consult a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin, and combine active ingredients with an SPF 50+ sunscreen.

It’s wise to combine an awareness of cosmetic trends with a critical approach – not every new launch will be right for your skin. Reach for products with proven effects and certified ingredients that respect your skin’s natural regenerative processes.

My personal favourite active ingredients are coenzyme Q10 and unsaturated fatty acids (omega-6). This is primarily due to their safety profile and complete lack of irritation. Coenzyme Q10 combines the powerful antioxidant and anti-ageing effects of retinol with an excellent safety profile. Unlike retinol, it doesn’t irritate the skin, cause photosensitivity, or lead to hyperpigmentation. Meanwhile, omega-6 fatty acids work to normalise sebaceous gland function, moisturise, and support regeneration, even in reactive skin. The result is a healthy-looking complexion. Cosmetics with these ingredients can be used all year round and at any age.

These are precisely the principles our Serum + Q10 was built on. It contains a maximum dose of coenzyme Q10 and unsaturated fatty acids, including omega-6, as well as flavonoids and cannabinoids. It is a safe and potent serum with its efficacy proven in clinical trials.

Aleksandra